Crossing the border from Tajikistan to Afghanistan through the Shir Khan Bandar border is a unique adventure. I’ve got some useful insights and tips for anyone who’s up for this journey. Keep in mind that conditions can change quickly in Afghanistan, so it’s essential to stay updated. The information in this article were valid at the beginning of October 2023!
Important Information
1. Ever-Changing Situation: Afghanistan’s political and security situation is very changeable. This means things can change frequently and will affect your travel plans. Don’t rely on your government’s websites for information since all countries besides Pakistan don’t have embassies in Afghanistan. No country recognizes the Taliban as legitimate rulers of the region.
2. Stay Connected: It’s a good idea to join special groups on WhatsApp or Telegram to get real-time updates and information. If you need help with getting in them, feel free to ask me.
3. Traveling Alone: You can travel alone in Afghanistan, and more people are doing it. While it’s safer than it used to be, it’s still a good idea to be cautious. If you’re new to challenging destinations, think about getting a guide for extra safety. A guided tour usually costs around $50 to $70 a day for the service, not including other expenses. However, even if you travel alone, you can stay safe by being careful and following local rules.
4. Advice for Women Travelers: If you’re a woman traveling alone, take extra care and especially cover, which you are obligated by law as well. I’ve talked to female travelers, and they recommend being extra careful. If you have doubts, it’s a good idea to have a travel buddy or a guide with you. It’s important to know that women do not have many rights in Afghanistan, so staying careful is important. From what I’ve seen and heard, experienced solo women travelers have had safe trips.
Important Items
Here’s a list of things you should have for your journey
- Several small passport photos.
- It’s best to have a visa before your trip, but not all embassies issue valid visas.
- An optional invitation letter.
- Cash is the way to go in Afghanistan because credit cards aren’t widely accepted. You can exchange money at the border for a fair rate.
- Time is important, so be ready to spend a while at border crossings. I spent five hours, but some travelers took even longer. Don’t forget to bring some snacks and drinks.
- Have long clothes with you. You don’t want to behave disrespectfully.
The Border Crossing Process
When you arrive at the border from Tajikistan, you need to wait until 9 a.m. for it to open. They’ll record your passport details, and you can move on to the next checkpoint. It should be possible to walk to the next checkpoint, but you can also get a ride, which costs about $1. On the way back to Tajikistan, the ride was free, but that might depend on the direction.
More checks come after that, and you’ll get an exit stamp. As you cross the bridge and see the Taliban flags, you’re officially Afghanistan. The entry process can take time, with waiting times, phone checks (be ready to give up your phone for inspection), and an unpredictable visa process.
To leave/enter Afghanistan, be aware of the border’s opening hours: it’s open from 9 a.m. to 12 p.m., closed from 12 p.m. to 2 p.m., and open again from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. If you arrive during the midday break, be prepared to wait. The exit process is quicker but can still be annoying. The Taliban will ask questions and inspect your belongings.
Once you’re inside the country, it’s smart to exchange your money and make sure to have enough cash with you. Local currency will make your trip cheaper. Shared taxis are available to transport you to Kunduz, the next major city. In Kunduz, you’ll need to visit the Taliban authorities to receive a permit, which is required for any other districts you intend to visit as well.
Leaving Afghanistan
While I managed to hide my camera, I’d recommend storing important data online to avoid unwanted attention. Prepare for the border’s strict checks. When returning to Tajikistan, the procedure is quite simple, requiring only an entry stamp. Shared taxis are available to take you to your destination, with a bit of negotiation you can get for less than $10 back to Dushanbe.
Summary
Crossing the border from Tajikistan to Afghanistan is an extraordinary experience for adventurous travelers. By staying informed and being well-prepared, you can navigate the challenges and create lasting memories.
