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After visiting Afghanistan, it was time to finally go to really see the city, before I haven’t done it, so it was time! First I wanted to stay with a different guy from Couchsurfing, but he was staying quite far away from my route. It was easier to go back to Mehrubon, it was anyway good with him, I just wanted to meet more different people. The guy from Germany, Thomas, who I met before was also staying as well. 

Exploring the city

Thomas had to work, so I was doing a relaxed morning and then decided to explore a bit. I got in contact and met her downtown. Nusha is a local girl, who also has many international connections, even to the ambassador from Germany in Tajikistan. We met and got along quite well from the beginning. Walking around some parks and exploring the city like that. We went to a restaurant she was working in back then and I got myself a really good burger. I tend to eat a lot of non local food when traveling, often it has to do with the fact that they have a lot of meat products or just being too spicy. 

The weather was great and I actually was expecting less from Dushanbe. It seems to be quite open and modern. Nusha was telling me that actually the country is having some human rights issues, but as a tourist you are not really seeing it, especially not when just coming from Afghanistan where all rights are getting hit with everything. 

Actually when thinking about my day, it included more talking then actually deeply exploring the city. I mean we were seeing all the important sights of Dushanbe, but they are also quite limited when being honest. They have sculptures and monuments, a lot of gold and as impressive as possible. The more gold and the bigger the better it is.

Culture

For me it is when I travel more important to learn about culture and local life, then actually seeing things. I didn’t have any idea of what there is to see and explore, instead I left it up to Nushia to give me ideas of things to do, she decided everything. At the end we ended up in a bar, where we tried local beer. She was widely known in the bar and it was interesting for me to experience it. Everyone liked her and to be fair she seemed like a really cool person. She was telling me about a region in Tajikistan which wants to be independent but not really having a chance for it. They even speak a different language there, which other people in the county are not understanding. It is also forbidden to teach this language, if I understand correctly.

Besides this fact, the country is known for its mountains and nature from which they have just a lot. I didn’t see that much, but I can imagine after seeing the pictures. 

End of the day

Before I went back home, she actually wanted to show me her cats, because she was having a baby kitten and there I learned how taxis work there. It is important to tell them that they put on the taximeter, because they often don’t want to rip you off. Especially for tourists that’s important, there it is more likely. When you put that on, the price of the taxi isn’t actually that high, so it is quite convenient to take one. The bus system is okay, but for me it was a bit tricky to understand. It takes way longer, but is around 8-10 times cheaper than taxi, so of course I sometimes took the bus. 

The cat was super cute and from her place I was able to have a view of a mosque. In Tajikistan they say it is the biggest in Central Asia. Same as the one in Astana in Kazakhstan. I was researching a bit and some sources say it’s the one in Astana and others are saying it is the one in Dushanbe. Can’t really understand why it is not clear. 

After staying for a bit and spending some more time and good conversations together, it was time for me to go, because I had to go back to Mehrubon and Thomas. We wanted to go out for some traditional food. She ordered a taxi to the place I needed to go and helped with translation, because the guy didn’t speak English. I was getting some words out of him, but it was more difficult, then a blessing time for him.

Eating traditional food

We went to the restaurant and Mehrubon ordered a lot of food for us, which was half with meat. All other times he was very respectful with me not eating meat, sadly not this time. The food was still good and I was able to eat some of it, some stuff which was not with meat and it was very tasty. We received some bread, to use it as a way of eating, which is common there. Also eating on the ground. 

That concept is something I knew a lot from the Middle East and I honestly love it a lot. Also in some countries in Africa I experienced it. Such a great way of somehow getting more connected to the food and enjoying it more, at least for me it is kind of the way. 

Still I was quite weak from the food poisoning and it was no blessing, but the food stayed inside my body from that time on, so everything was on an upgoing hill, which was perfect. 

After finishing the food, Thomas bought himself some beer to drink at home. I also had one to join him, but I didn’t really want to drink, it’s something I was almost never doing this year and especially during traveling it is something which is not really part of it. 

Spending time with the boys

It was always good when doing so. We were playing some card games, which I also played in Germany already. They played just with different rules, which is funny, because many card games get played in different countries differently and I never know if I played the correct ways or if not. 

They were also down to play my rules of the game and also enjoyed it. While we played Thomas was drinking some beer and we all had great conversations. Actually the brother and cousin of Mehrubon don’t really speak English, but honestly we always got along. When you want to communicate with people, somehow it will work out. 

The night was great and I always enjoyed sleeping on the ground at the end of it. Having something which is not a mattrace you know already is always kind of special for me, even though I had it quite often. You need to enjoy the small things in life. 

Getting some shopping done

I am not a person who enjoys shopping, but I am trying to learn to make things different and things which are not leaving me in my comfort zone. Shopping is one of those things! In Kazakhstan it started with me buying a hat and a t-shirt. These are small things and nothing special for most people, for me it was something big though.

In Tajikistan I wanted to do even more, buying some sweatshirts. Probably it is due to not wanting to do something good for me, but the self hate is gone. Nevermind so I went to the mall nearby and went from shop to shop. I was thinking of getting shorts or, like mentioned, a sweatshirt. There was one shop which looked quality wise not in my budget, but I looked at it anyway. 

The prices were super cheap, cheaper than in Kazakhstan and anywhere else, but the quality was better. So I was trying on some sweatshirts and pants but ended up buying not just one, I bought two sweatshirts and was very happy about it. Actually I am wearing them all the time and it makes me proud to be spending money positively for me. Sometimes traveling can let you be lost, or sometimes you can just work on yourself even more, the second thing is what I am choosing from now on most of the time. It is all a training process. 

Finishing of the trip

With Mehrubon I went out for some adventure. We went to an amusement park and there was a live performance from some people from Uzbekistan. They were doing acrobatics and it was very cool. Next to it there was some late opening Bazaar, to which we went. 

I wanted to get some spices for my mother and so I found some which were actually locally used on a regular basis. It was great that I found it and also to see some local bazaars. Bazaars are always great, when wanting to dive into the local life a little bit. I didn’t have time, because I still had a meetup later on. 
I was meeting Nusha one more time on this day, we went to a different bar with her friend and we 3 were spending some time together. It was quite nice to meet some other locals too and he was even speaking German, which was quite fun. He was super friendly and I felt welcome. After he was gone, we two were spending some more time and then it was time for me to leave Tajikistan again. I wasn’t there that long, but it has potential to be revisited. There is a lot to see in this country and due to that, I should go again, when visiting the neighbors again.

What’s up next?

In the next article it will be about the little trip to the Netherlands, so stay tuned!

Written by

Nico Koch

I am Nico Koch from Hamburg in Germany and happy that you are interested in seeing the world through my eyes and want to join me on my journey.