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The drums came closer and the kids from earlier were coming with us. When we finally saw what was going on, we got more excited. A big celebration as it seemed like. We didn’t know if we would have been welcome there, but we just went for it and hoped for the best. Lulik!

After people started to see us with our backpacks, there was another highlight appearing, it was us. 

What was going on at the beginning?

The beginning was the most interesting I guess. Everyone was staring at us and someone welcomed us, who was speaking English. He welcomed us to the village and explained what was going on there. It was a spiritual event, which is only once a year and we were the first foreigners who were attending this one, but we are most welcome to join. 

Everyone wanted to take a picture with us and the leader of the village, who was seen as lulik (holy) didn’t trust us at the beginning. He and all others always were looking at us and had someone on our side, to not get us out of sight. It was a weird combination, everyone seemed to be happy to have us there and on the other hand, no trust at all. 

We got invited in for some food, which was super nice. We missed the big eating gathering, but luckily they had some leftovers. Rice with some fresh vegetables from the village and for me it was on the whole trip in general, the best food I received. It was super tasty and not spicy at all, perfect! 

Getting more included

Slowly it was time for us to get more included, they were taking us in their circle to dance with them. Both Bana and I are not the biggest dancers, but jumping up and down and moving a bit to the side worked out somehow.

The chief was giving us swords and traditional clothes for the celebration. The traditional clothes were nice, but with the sword I felt a bit weird and unsafe, but it was their culture, so I went with it. Tried to give the sword away as soon as possible though. The clothes I had on the whole celebration actually. 

The kids played the drum and also we were allowed to play, but they were not satisfied, the sound wasn’t amazing from our play, still it was fun. The event was going on for a long time and here and there people started to talk to us, wanting to know where we are from, why we are here and if we can take a picture together. We took many pictures with many people and also with our phones. 

The temperature was dropping more while the sun was about to set. It was really beautiful there and people were getting affected by alcohol and betel nuts, which many of them were eating. You were seeing a lot of red liquid on the bottom from the nut. You could also see how it was affecting their teeth from using it a lot in their lives. I was also invited to eat, but I was so sleepy that I declined. 

The lulik house 

The lulik house was a spiritual house in the village, which was not able to enter unless for a spiritual event, so actually seeing theirs from the inside felt really special. They were doing fire inside and group cooking, where most people had their task. The dogs were running around freely as a pet, at another spiritual event they would eat them though. 

It was hard being inside the house the whole time, due to the smoke circulation inside it, but the experience was great! The music was played inside the house and they gave me a lot of coffee, which was interesting. I usually don’t like to drink coffee, but theirs was just amazing and I was drinking many glasses from it. 

I was sitting around and talking to the locals, who spoke English and also were dancing sometimes, after people asked me to. 

Sacrificing 

When I went out of the holy house to get some fresh air. I was seeing in the distance some gathering at a holy rock. I went there and was able to see the sacrifice of a few chickens. They took out the organs and did some rituals with it. 

I myself don’t eat chicken or other types of meat, but it was super interesting to watch, you hear in stories or movies about stuff like this, but seeing it with your own eyes was something special. On Instagram you can also find videos from it in my highlight story. I won’t upload them here, because it can be obviously unwelcome to see for someone. More pictures and videos, just click on this link!


The night

The night was beautiful, due to not really having light pollution over there, it was just stunning. The sky was fully covered by stars and you could see everything. It felt like being back in the desert in Jordan, so peaceful and with no internet. Just you, nature and peace. 

It was getting cold, for the first time on this trip. Due to the traditional clothes which we got, we were not freezing, because they were super warm. This is also what we used for a blanket at night. The family of the chief was allowing us to sleep in their house on a mattress. It was so kind and the traditional clothes were holding me super comfy and warm. 

In that house there were many people playing cards for money and the kids were surrounding us, with whom Bana tried to teach English, which was funny to watch. I was talking to one girl in the village, who was also speaking English. It was quite nice hearing her stories about village life and everything. 

We were also in the lulik house while preparing food, but it took forever. Bana and I went to sleep and told them to wake us up, when the food would have been finished. They actually did and it was around 3am. We ate and went back to sleep right after again. The food was good, but due to being super tired I couldn’t fully recall what I even ate and how it tasted. 


Next morning

The next morning, the people started to get up and you could see that they partied a bit the night before, but everyone still had a smile on their faces. We were having some talks and were taking many pictures. The surroundings looked really beautiful and being in full village life just felt good. 

I had a little surprise for them, my drone! Just going flying and taking some pictures was amazing for the people. On the videos itself it isn’t looking as amazing, but still it was fun to do.

The people wanted us to stay longer, for more activities, but we didn’t have time. So we had time, but we both wanted to get our next flight and for that we had to be back in Dili the next morning to take the bus back. It was all too risky and we still had to organize many things. It was a sad “goodbye”, but one which maybe is not forever. We have numbers from some people and they keep texting, even till now. 

Back to Dili

We had to hike everything back to the main road and it was crazy because a day before. The people were looking surprised at us and this time they were happy seeing us, because they were with us the whole night. It was cool to kind of be part of their community, even though it was just for short. 

After we arrived on the main road, some shared transportation stopped and asked for $5 back to Dili in a quiet comfortable car. We agreed because we just wanted to go back. Both of us didn’t want to experience a ride like the one from the day before. 

We were stopping in a little town and it was perfect, because it was the town in which you were able to buy those traditional clothes. I went there to buy it and tried to negotiate, but they were not able to go lower than they were. It was due to not ripping off tourists, which I wasn’t expecting. It was also cheaper than what the people in the village told us, so in the end I was buying it and didn’t regret it. The thing is now actually laying on my bed in Germany.

In the transport there was an old guy, who wanted to pretend to be nice to us in order to receive some money and annoyed us a lot. I am not a fan of it, so I started ignoring him for around 20min, until he finally left. It was so unnecessary, but sadly happens sometimes. 

Back in Dili we’ve been dropped near the place from Josh, which was amazing for us and we were able to be back in.

Last day with Josh

We were telling him about our adventure, but he was sadly not amazed by it which we didn’t expect, at least for us it was amazing. We were talking a bit and at the end of the day. He was taking us to a family event for a baptism from some family member. 

It was a huge event and also it wasn’t weird for the people that we were attending which was great, also that everyone was speaking English surprised me. In the country itself there were not many people, so it was for sure something uncommon for us to see. 

Nice being part of there and experiencing some different parts of the culture. Sadly our time had to end and we for sure wanted to spend more time in the country, which really surprised both of us. 

Timor Leste is a country which is for sure underrated!

Back in Indonesia

At the border we had to pay again for the entry visa, which was annoying for me. I was flying a day later out anyway and it was not my 30 days in the country. Again I was complaining at another border crossing but not working. Nothing you can do sadly.

After a terrible bus ride without a break, besides at the border. We arrived in Kupang and were picked up from Conny which was great. We were spending some more quality time with her, by having great conversations and getting stuff done. 

Receiving my water filter back was also something really amazing, about which I am still now super thankful! We were staying one night, because in the morning both of us were having some flights, but to different locations. Bana and I are traveling now for two weeks together, but the last week will be something I do by myself. 

What is up next?

In the next article you are going to read about my airport experience to get to my next destination on this trip!

Written by

Nico Koch

I am Nico Koch from Hamburg in Germany and happy that you are interested in seeing the world through my eyes and want to join me on my journey.