While doing some hitchhiking into the mountain region of Timor Leste, we went for a hike into them. Out of the distance we were hearing some drums, so our plans changed, to check it out. Read here about the experience of that special day where I experienced a tribal ritual in Timor Leste.
First encountering with the tribe
We went toward the drums, the people were looking weird at us at the village and we were being looked at as strangers, which we obviously were.
On the way to the center from the village a local boy was escorting us to it and it was a good help for encountering them. One guy from the tribe was stepping forward and talked to us in English, which was helpful for sure.
The tribe was very suspicious and didn’t really welcome us. Besides the few people who were high on betel nuts, which we were offered a lot during the upcoming hours.
They were dancing and singing while people were playing the drum and just having a great time. The guy who could speak English was very welcoming though, he offered us food. It was prepared by all people together. Honestly it was the best food I had in Southeast Asia. Also they offered coffee, which is not possible to compare with other coffee I tried. Usually I am not a fan, but that one tasted amazing.
Involving with the tribe
It took some time, but then the tribe leader was opening up. Even giving us local clothes and their weapons for a traditional dance with the others. It was kind of jumping in with one foot into a circle and always somehow with the beat. Well it took some courage to do so, but it was a great experience, we did some videos of it, because it felt very special
We were told that the event they were holding was only happening once a year. There were never foreigners part of it, so it felt even more special to encounter with the tribe and at their ritual like that.
The day slowly went past and the Uma Lulik opened, it is translated to “holy house” which opens only at special occasions. The families were slowly starting to prepare food for everyone.
There was action inside and outside of the house, everyone knew what to do and we were kind of everywhere and nowhere. They didn’t really want us to help much, but still being part of it.
Sacrifice ritual
*trigger warning*
While the sun was setting, the elders of the tribe were meeting at some sort of holy rock in front of the house. They picked a chicken and killed it on the rock.
Next step was to get the organs out of the chicken. They lay it on the rock with a sort of ritual to it.
It was such an honor to be part of it. Just being part of this special world is meaning a lot to me and was something I would not want to miss in my life.
I am not able to fully recap the experience. To be honest, I wasn’t fully understanding it myself what was it all about and what exactly they did. I just saw the organs laying around like a necklace with a lot of blood and people with torches around it.
Timor Leste and it’s tribal ritual also seem to include sacrificing, and this need to be respected I believe.
The night full of stars
The night was very special. At night, the sky was full of stars and it was very special.
We went a little bit away from the crowd to fully take in the stars.
People were a bit concerned and suspicious, there were always people looking for us.
I guess they were open to having us there, but didn’t fully believe if they could trust us or not.
I went into the desert in Jordan and other places, but I believe that it was in that night the craziest of all night skies I had seen in my life so far. Always hoping to of course beat it.
Uma Lulik
We were spending a lot of time in the holy house actually. They shifted the drums in there and we were playing it as well. Trying to help with the cooking, which was happening inside as well.
The smoke was getting strong, so I sometimes had to get fresh air. A woman appeared who was also speaking English, which was great, so she told us a lot about the traditions in the village.
It was interesting, for example they are owning dogs. These dogs are sort of family for them, but at special occasions they are still getting sacrificed. So they are treating the animals good. When it is time they will see it just as food and are thankful for everything they will be giving them back.
They do not have much in the village, so they use everything they have together. This is a different perspective which we should consider before judging behavior like this, because in our society it is seen as a no go.
Sleeping time with the tribe
It was time to go to bed, they were putting a mattress on the entrance floor of the leader’s home. It was a weird situation. 3 in the morning, with all people in the tribe still awake. Teaching the kids some English on the one side and watching people doing gambling on the other side.
I couldn’t help and had to just sleep, after drinking a few more cups of coffee.
Still I told them to wake me up when the meal they prepared for several hours would be ready.
Few hours of sleep were possible before waking up and enjoying some meal with the rest of the tribe. Right after I went back to bed, because it was very late and there were many things happening during the day.
Waking up with the tribe in Timor Leste
It was very early, but bright. The people who were slowly waking up seemed like they had a strong hangover from drinking so much alcohol and eating betel nuts.
People were greeting us as a part of the tribe and not as strangers anymore.
We were eating some breakfast together. I flew my drone in order to get some great shots and then it was time for us to go. We had to get back to Indonesia and were sadly not able to spend more time with them. Of course it would have been amazing to be honest, but we finished it at the best time possible.
The tribe was saying us goodbye and it felt like a very warm goodbye.
On the way back to town we were hiking the whole way back and we met many people on the way. We were meeting the day before and seen and greeted and it just felt very nice.
Summary
The most amazing experiences can happen from things you are not planning. Go with open eyes through life and be open to changes in your daily life.
Be curious and listen to stories of others, many doors can open like this and the best things can happen.
This tribal experience was one of the best I was having so far in my life which made Timor Leste, with the tribal ritual, one of my favorite countries so far. It wouldn’t have happened without curiosity.
To be fair, it could have ended badly with a bad experience, but you can never know without trying it out.
So experiencing the tribal ritual in Timor Leste, is one of my favorite travel stories.
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